Resilience & Restoration in Hawaii’s Taro Farms
For centuries, Hawaiians cultivated loʻi kalo, or wetland taro ponds. This practice largely ended in the late 1940s when a major sugar company diverted water to irrigate its cane fields. With the recent closure of Hawaii’s last sugar plantation, the return of water rights may offer renewed opportunities for taro farmers.
For over a millennium, taro, known as "kalo" in Hawaiian, was a vital crop and cultural cornerstone in Hawaii.
However, taro cultivation has seen a significant decline since Western contact in 1778. The introduction of foreign diseases devastated the Native Hawaiian population, while those who survived often lost their land to sugar plantation owners during the 19th and 20th centuries. Additionally, the arrival of settlers from Asia and the mainland United States brought alternative staples like wheat and rice, further shifting agricultural priorities.
At its height, taro farming spanned an estimated 35,000 acres across the Hawaiian Islands. Today, that number has plummeted to fewer than 350 acres statewide—a stark contrast to the approximate 16,000 acres dedicated to macadamia nuts and the 7,000 acres producing coffee in Hawai’i. Despite this, taro remains in high demand, with Hawaii consuming roughly 6.5 million pounds annually. Local farms provide about 75% of that supply, but the state still imports around 2 million pounds each year, primarily from Fiji.
A new wave of farmers is determined to revive taro cultivation, focusing on organic practices and reconnecting with the agricultural traditions of their ancestors.
What’s Taro?
Taro, or kalo in Hawaiian, is more than just a starchy root vegetable. It’s the heartbeat of Hawaiian agriculture and culture. The plant produces a thick, tuberous root that’s used to make poi, a traditional Hawaiian staple, as well as leaves that are used in cooking. Beyond its culinary value, kalo holds deep spiritual significance for Native Hawaiians. According to Hawaiian mythology, kalo is the older sibling of the Hawaiian people, born from the union of sky father and earth mother. To grow taro is, in many ways, to honor one’s ancestors.
But taro is also a marvel of adaptability. It thrives in waterlogged conditions, making it ideal for Hawaii’s unique lo‘i (irrigated terrace) farming system, which dates back over a thousand years. This system, a masterpiece of agricultural ingenuity, integrates food production with environmental preservation.
The Lo‘i System: A Genius of Agriculture
The lo‘i system is a network of terraced fields irrigated by streams diverted from mountain watersheds. The flowing water ensures optimal growing conditions for taro while also creating thriving ecosystems for aquatic life like fish and prawns. Once the water has passed through the lo‘i, it is returned to the streams, clean and enriched, supporting downstream communities and ecosystems.
In contrast to modern industrial agriculture, which often depletes resources, the lo‘i system is regenerative by design. It reflects a worldview where people and land are deeply interconnected. Reviving these fields means restoring not just food production but also the ecological balance that sustains life on an island.
For decades, many lo‘i fields were abandoned as plantation agriculture and urbanization took over. However, a movement is underway to reclaim and restore these systems, not just for their cultural significance but for the critical role they play in creating food security.
A Modern Push to do things the old way
Hawaii imports nearly 90% of its food, leaving the islands extremely vulnerable in the event of supply chain disruptions. Natural disasters, such as hurricanes or tsunamis, could cut Hawaii off from essential goods almost immediately. Reviving traditional farming practices like taro cultivation is seen as a way to strengthen local food systems and reduce reliance on imports.
Community organizations, farmers, and educators are leading the charge to bring taro farming back to prominence. Programs like Hoʻokuaʻāina on Oahu teach young people how to work the lo‘i, fostering not only agricultural skills but also a sense of connection to the land and its history. These initiatives emphasize that growing taro isn’t just about food—it’s about rebuilding relationships with the land, each other, and the values that sustain a community.
indigenous agriculture = resilience
The revival of taro farming in Hawaii offers lessons that extend far beyond the islands. Indigenous agricultural systems are inherently resilient, designed to adapt to changing conditions while maintaining ecological balance. For a world grappling with climate change and unsustainable farming practices, Hawaii’s lo‘i fields serve as a reminder that food production can—and should—be regenerative.
These systems teach us to value long-term stewardship over short-term gains, to view food as a gift rather than a commodity, and to recognize that true sustainability requires working with the land, not against it.
Vitality > Vulnerability
Hawaii’s push to revive taro farming is as much about the future as it is about the past. By restoring ancient systems of agriculture, the islands are reclaiming not just food sovereignty but also the values of care, respect, and reciprocity that those systems embody.
For those outside Hawaii, the message is clear: food security starts with understanding where our food comes from and how it’s grown. Whether tending a backyard garden or supporting local farmers, there’s something deeply empowering about growing food in harmony with the land.
(All images sourced online.)